Beauty market

Catch up on recent cosmetic formulation research

Cosmetic researchers around the world are studying how to meet market demands such as protection against pollutants, natural products and sustainability. The results reveal possible paths to new ingredients and products, as well as revised approaches to existing products.

Catch up on recent searches on CosmeticsDesign.

Zeolites show potential as an anti-heavy metal cosmetic ingredient

Heavy metals can be found in water, air and soil pollution, in some jewelry and cosmetics, or in natural deposits. © Getty Images – Abstract Aerial Art

Zeolites, a nanoporous material currently being tested in various other fields, can absorb heavy metals into a creamy cosmetic and offer potential for formulators looking to remove these environmental compounds, preliminary data from Italy and Switzerland suggests.

Writing in cosmetics, Pesando et al. said zeolites are already being tested as a way to absorb toxins and improve the results of various medical treatments, and their research aimed to show the viability of zeolites as a cosmetic ingredient to prevent heavy metals from penetrating through the skin .

“Toxic metals are defined by many as ‘silent killers’ because they replace minerals necessary for life in the body, altering biological functions and structures,” said Pesando et al. “Zeoliths are currently attracting a lot of interest for their absorption properties, capable of trapping toxins in the crystal channels.”

What are zeolites
According to Pesando et al, zeolites are a nanoporous material with an aluminosilicate crystal structure that can be derived naturally or synthetically. In less scientific terms, zeolites can act as “molecular sieves”, moderating what molecules might reach on the surface of the skin.

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Essential Oils Could Have Uses in Cosmetics, But Still Pose Significant Challenges

Essential oil, lemon and lavender
Essential oils have many potential uses outside of fragrance, but they also pose consumer safety risks if not properly analyzed. © Getty Images – 5./15 WEST

Consumer and regulatory demands are pushing personal care brands to use more botanical ingredients, pushing essential oils further away from fragrances and requiring more research.

An article was published in Beauty products​by a research team from Spain and Argentina, Guzmán et al, who summarized the current body of knowledge on the use of essential oils and essential oil components in cosmetics and beauty products.

Guzmán et al said that natural ingredients have been used in cosmetics for a long time, but recent consumer sentiment and international regulations have pushed the “natural beauty” segment to grow, accounting for around 10% or 40 billion dollars from the current world market.

Essential oils have long been used in perfumes because they are rich in aromatic compounds, but the research team said their antioxidant, bactericidal, virucidal, fungicidal, antiparasitic, insecticidal and medicinal properties offer wide utility in skincare. personal.

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Sandalwood shows promise as a blue light, pollution protection ingredient

sandalwood products
The research team had previously tested the antioxidant and anti-aging potential of sandalwood in vitro and ex vivo. © Getty Images – Madeleine_Steinbach

Sandalwood is already an important fragrance ingredient, but a recent study shows that the ingredient could also protect the skin against blue light and pollution.

A research team based in Mauritius, Australia and France, Kolanthan et al, recently published their most recent study on the topical application of sandalwood in cosmetics with an in vivo study on blue light and protection against Pollution.

Kolanthan et al previously studied the antioxidant and anti-aging qualities of sandalwood in vitro and ex vivo, which found that sandalwood oil showed promise in protecting the skin from blue light and smoke. cigarette.

In this most recent follow-up study, Kolanthan et al said they want to measure sandalwood’s real-world blue light and pollution protection potential as demand for these qualities in personal care products increases. .

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Challenges in formulating natural and organic sunscreen products

Sunscreen on a beach
Organic and natural cosmetics represent a multi-billion dollar market, including sunscreen products. © Getty Images – georgeclerk

Sunscreens are a formulation challenge, especially when it comes to meeting the demands of organic and natural consumers.

An Italian and American research team, Tortini et al, recently published a narrative review of natural and organic sunscreen formulations in the journal Cosmetics. The purpose of the document was to gather information on the natural and organic formulation.

Tortini et al stated that consumers, especially those born after 2000, are interested in both sunscreen products and the environmental impacts of products.

“The formulation of effective and pleasant sunscreens, with a natural, organic, sustainable connotation, is becoming more and more complex due to the scarcity of suitable ingredients”,According to Tortini et al.

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Skin to Skin: Potential Benefits of Recycled Mangosteen Bark Extract, Study

Mangosteen is a sweet and juicy fruit mainly produced in Southeast Asia with some antioxidant and anti-aging potential. © Getty Images – eROMAZe

Plants from around the world offer potential for botanical and recycled ingredients, and a research team from Malaysia has found that the skin of mangosteens may hold promise for skin care.

The research team, Tan et al, was recently published in Cosmetics exploring the potential of mangosteen peels as a cosmetic ingredient, both due to its skincare properties, recycling potential and its impact on local economies.

Mangosteen is a sweet and juicy fruit grown mainly in Southeast Asia, particularly Malaysia. Fruit is often processed into juices, concentrates and dried fruit for consumption, leaving behind waste products like peels.

Tan et al used mangosteen peels to create a recycled standardized extract with potential anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, and pigmentation control effects.

“Natural antioxidants derived from natural sources such as mangosteen peel are preferred over synthetic antioxidants due to undesirable side effects of synthetic antioxidants,”Tan et al said. “Therefore, the objective of this study is to formulate and evaluate novel herbal face creams containing mangosteen peel extract that has been standardized.”

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